[Tfug] Fwd: Re: OT: Latex/rubber solvents

[William McNulty]

Good to hear it makes it soft. Should work very well. As for the evap. Just
drape a towel over whatever container you use. Hood to see its working
On Mar 12, 2014 12:08 PM, "Bexley Hall" <bexley401 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi William,
>
> On 3/11/2014 7:08 PM, William McNulty wrote:
>
>> No problem. I hope the laquer thinner helps. It really should. With
>>
>
> Well, I had to resort to a #10 can -- the "business end" of the
> stirrer is just too big for anything much smaller than that.  Much
> too large for a (Progresso) "soup" can -- and I don't drink coffee
> (does that even *come* in cans anymore?)
>
> Not wanting to commit a lot of solvent to the job without some
> "encouragement", I put just a pint in the can -- just enough to
> cover the very bottom surface (which has a fair bit of gunk on
> it!).  Also wanted to get an idea of evaporation rates...
>
> A couple of hours later, *some* of the stuff is surprisingly soft!
> Not likely that it will ever *dissolve* the latex but it does appear
> to be softening it to the point that it easily scrapes off on the
> few convex surfaces.  I'll let it soak a bit longer and see how
> some of the thicker areas fare.
>
> (And, whether the solvent stays in liquid form all that time!)
>
>  anything you'll ever have to remove there's always going to be a bit of
>> hand work but yea i agree a solvent to make it easier is better. I do
>>
>
> Agreed.  I'm not averse to *some* manual cleanup.  E.g., the (putty)
> knives that I use for applying tar come *mostly* clean in spirits...
> but, there is always some crud that lingers where the blade meets
> the handle -- and on the handle itself (since I won't submerge the
> handles in spirits).  There's just way too many "changes in direction"
> of the metalwork on this thing so any hand work will be tedious and
> require small tools -- even a wire brush would be ineffective!
>
>  understand now what you meant about the paddles. I've had this problem
>> before. I believe I used the same thing. Normally nowadays if our paddle
>> gets tons of buildup on it we leave it. Chances are the dried buildup
>> won't
>> affect future use. But that's just a personal lazyish opinion.
>>
>
> I guess I've been spoiled with *other* (non roof) paints whereby you
> could leave brushes, etc. soak overnight and go a long way towards
> having them clean, again!  This stuff must have a shitload of "solids"
> in it!
>
>  It's nice to have tools clean.
>>
>
> Yup.  Depending on the industry, dirty tools are often a sign of
> shoddy workmanship.  E.g., as a car mechanic, I imagine you didn't
> put away tools laden with grease, etc.  OTOH, a painter with clean
> overalls leaves me wondering if he's *ever* held a brush!  :-/
>
>  But like I said, there will always be a bit of scraping,
>> so I'm hoping we can narrow that down.
>>
>
> Encouraging, so far!  :>
>
>  The only thing I can think of is an industrial airplane paint stripper. As
>> a last resort alternative. It's very good at what it does. Probably *the*
>> best paint stripper I've ever used. But it is really noxious and very bad
>> for your skin or anything else it touches.
>>
>
> Most "good stuff" is nasty.  Each time I use MEK, acetone, etc. I get
> this nagging thought:  how much exposure *is* too much?  Disturbing to
> find all the natural oils leeched out of your hands!  :<
>
> OTOH, I can recall using chlordane and DDT "casually" as a youngster...
> (perhaps that explains that sixth finger on my left hand!)
>
>  Not the safest this unless you're experienced. No offense if you are.
>> The laquer thinner should do the trick though.
>>
>> Good luck! I'll check back to see the results
>>
>
> Grocery day -- least favorite day of the week.  I'll have a peek in
> the can when we return and see:
> - how much thinner has evaporated
> - how much rubber is "removable"
> If the results look good, I'll probably fill the can (to submerse the
> entire paddle) and leave it sit over night (less chance of evaporation?)
>
> Thx!
> --don
>
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