[Tfug] Fwd: Re: OT: Latex/rubber solvents

[Bexley Hall]

Hi William,

On 3/11/2014 7:08 PM, William McNulty wrote:
> No problem. I hope the laquer thinner helps. It really should. With

Well, I had to resort to a #10 can -- the "business end" of the
stirrer is just too big for anything much smaller than that.  Much
too large for a (Progresso) "soup" can -- and I don't drink coffee
(does that even *come* in cans anymore?)

Not wanting to commit a lot of solvent to the job without some
"encouragement", I put just a pint in the can -- just enough to
cover the very bottom surface (which has a fair bit of gunk on
it!).  Also wanted to get an idea of evaporation rates...

A couple of hours later, *some* of the stuff is surprisingly soft!
Not likely that it will ever *dissolve* the latex but it does appear
to be softening it to the point that it easily scrapes off on the
few convex surfaces.  I'll let it soak a bit longer and see how
some of the thicker areas fare.

(And, whether the solvent stays in liquid form all that time!)

> anything you'll ever have to remove there's always going to be a bit of
> hand work but yea i agree a solvent to make it easier is better. I do

Agreed.  I'm not averse to *some* manual cleanup.  E.g., the (putty)
knives that I use for applying tar come *mostly* clean in spirits...
but, there is always some crud that lingers where the blade meets
the handle -- and on the handle itself (since I won't submerge the
handles in spirits).  There's just way too many "changes in direction"
of the metalwork on this thing so any hand work will be tedious and
require small tools -- even a wire brush would be ineffective!

> understand now what you meant about the paddles. I've had this problem
> before. I believe I used the same thing. Normally nowadays if our paddle
> gets tons of buildup on it we leave it. Chances are the dried buildup won't
> affect future use. But that's just a personal lazyish opinion.

I guess I've been spoiled with *other* (non roof) paints whereby you
could leave brushes, etc. soak overnight and go a long way towards
having them clean, again!  This stuff must have a shitload of "solids"
in it!

> It's nice to have tools clean.

Yup.  Depending on the industry, dirty tools are often a sign of
shoddy workmanship.  E.g., as a car mechanic, I imagine you didn't
put away tools laden with grease, etc.  OTOH, a painter with clean
overalls leaves me wondering if he's *ever* held a brush!  :-/

> But like I said, there will always be a bit of scraping,
> so I'm hoping we can narrow that down.

Encouraging, so far!  :>

> The only thing I can think of is an industrial airplane paint stripper. As
> a last resort alternative. It's very good at what it does. Probably *the*
> best paint stripper I've ever used. But it is really noxious and very bad
> for your skin or anything else it touches.

Most "good stuff" is nasty.  Each time I use MEK, acetone, etc. I get
this nagging thought:  how much exposure *is* too much?  Disturbing to
find all the natural oils leeched out of your hands!  :<

OTOH, I can recall using chlordane and DDT "casually" as a youngster...
(perhaps that explains that sixth finger on my left hand!)

> Not the safest this unless you're experienced. No offense if you are.
> The laquer thinner should do the trick though.
>
> Good luck! I'll check back to see the results

Grocery day -- least favorite day of the week.  I'll have a peek in
the can when we return and see:
- how much thinner has evaporated
- how much rubber is "removable"
If the results look good, I'll probably fill the can (to submerse the
entire paddle) and leave it sit over night (less chance of evaporation?)

Thx!
--don