[Tfug] Cabling

[Bexley Hall]

Hi Zack,

On 12/1/2013 8:52 AM, Zack Williams wrote:
> On Sat, Nov 30, 2013 at 3:52 PM, Bexley Hall<bexley401 at yahoo.com>  wrote:
>>   Zack (?) had pointed me at some "D rings" (?) some
>> time ago.  But, I was unable to find them (didn't know what
>> to search for).
>
> Yeah, that was probably me. "D-Rings" = Distribution Rings. I buy

Ah, OK.  I was literally thinking "D" (shaped).  Something along
the lines of:

<http://www.garvinindustries.com/images/itemimages/17ab.jpg>

But made out of round stock instead of flat.

> these at Border States Electric supply, near Park&  Ajo.  They're

(sigh)  Clear across.  I'll have to remember to stop in next time
I'm at the metal store.

> usually steel or aluminum, and a 2"x2" one costs $1 or so, last time I

Ouch!  Big!  Under the tables, the wire bundle is less than an inch
in diameter -- less than 16 cables.

I was originally thinking of something like:

<http://www.garvinindustries.com/images/itemimages/CAT150.jpg>

except made out of round stock, the "fastener" moved to the
midpoint of the "spiral" and the whole thing stretched out
(i.e., pull the inner end *out* of the screen so it's like
a cork screw).

We had something like this on a job I did many years ago
but they were castings.  Like drawing a 540 degree circle
in three dimensions:

- starting at 3 o'clock, draw clockwise
- at 12 o'clock, drill a hole to fasten to <something>
- continue *past* your 3 o'clock start until 9 o'clock
- all the while, move along the Z axis

This lets you fasten the hook in any orientation -- wall,
ceiling, upright, etc.

And, "threading" a cable into it is just a matter of
looping the cable *around* the fastener so it slides
into the opening.

(we used them inside 24" equipment racks)

> bought them.   They work great if you're looking to run cables along
> walls/ceilings, but still have it accessible for maintenance.

What I used is similar to:

<http://www.hometech.com/hts_images/er/er-catcr50_1.jpg>

except the "sides" are *hinged* (the device illustrated seems
to be solid).  So, I can push down on the sides to "tighten"
them based on how many wires are held therein.

> Best practice IMO is to use those and double sided strip Velcro you
> can cut to length rather than zip ties.  Zip ties installed too tight
> can damage the cable therein - Velcro doesn't have the problem and can
> easily be removed and reinstalled.   I've also seen Velcro with a
> screw grommet and plastic loop on one end where you can screw the
> strip into wood or similar, then strap the cable to it.

I've seen rubberish "loops" in the store.  Like wrapping a rubber
band *around* something (without putting that <something> through
the rubber band) and then tacking the band to a surface.

Ty-wraps are evil because they tend to be applied with a "gun"
that tightens them too tight.  And, cutting them off later
always risks nicking the wire.

(Someone makes an "undoable" ty wrap)

> I'm thinking the other thing you're mentioning is either split loom
> tubing (black with a slit down the side and generally horrible) or
> Innerduct (orange, much harder, with a pull string, available at
> Border States).  I tend to only use Innerduct when dealing with fiber.
>    There's also TechFlex tubing, which is basically a braided cable
> sleeve (looks/works something like a "Chinese finger puzzle"), which
> can be cut to length and melted with a heat gun/hot knife if you need
> to pretty up or keep together multiple cables in an exposed cable run.

No, see above.  The best analogy I can give is a cork screw like
used for a wine bottle.  But, not as many "turns".  And, a "flat
spot" halfway along through which a mounting hole allows the
corkscrew to be fastened *along* the wall/surface/etc.

(Of course, a corkscrew is too small of a diameter to be useful)

> I'm with Tyler on custom patch cables - I nearly never use them.
> Premade cabling is so cheap and already tested, that unless you have
> some weird need (strange length, passing through a hole smaller than
> the size of a cable end, or absolutely can't have slack anywhere), it
> isn't worth making them.  I keep a Fibonacci-esque set of premade
> cables sizes, color coded by length: 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 25, 50

The short ones are of no use to me -- going from the switch to
the computer located right below it is almost 5 ft (by the time the
cable is dressed and gets down to the point where the network
connection enters the machine).  Seven feet *might* work for the
2U server adjacent to it -- 8 would be a safer bet.

With two smaller switches, the cables stayed short(er).  With *one*
switch, you end up needing longer lengths -- but small variations
thereon.  E.g., to get from the switch to the far end of the table
is ~30 ft of wire.  The next closer machine, probably 28.  Then 26,
etc.

I end up needing lots of cables that are *about* 15 ft or *about* 20
feet -- but no two the same length.

(I should use the TDR to measure the actual cable lengths to see
what I end up with)

> Longer runs (basically anything over 50 feet, or terminating in a jack
> - always use keystone jacks in your patch panels and wallplates),
> sure, pull bulk cable and put on ends.

That's what I've done for the house as a whole (though the patch panel
doesn't have keystones -- just the "wall plates" scattered around the
house)

> YMMV based on your specific environment, but that's what I use and
> recommend.   Having a lot of different solutions just gives you more
> options.
>
> I'll leave everyone with this link: http://www.reddit.com/r/cableporn
>
> I'm out.

Having a wiring closet would be a luxury!  :>  I'm stuck with more
like a wiring *shelf* (that also has to hold the various bits of
kit to *drive* the system!  :< )

And, of course, SWMBO has to approve of the cosmetics...  :-/